Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
